• It is currently illegal for you or an arborist to go in and remove the tree, however, if there are branches extending onto your property line, you can most likely have them removed without permission. Yet, it is important to note that if you do so, you are liable for any damage to the tree--- not to mention, worsening the relationship with your neighbour. 
• The better option is to trust the city to handle it: be sure to check the city’s guidelines for what applies to your situation. For instance, in Calgary, although you can’t force a tree removal, if the tree is posing an imminent threat or danger, you can file a complaint with the city and have it addressed. 

1. Mulch the area around the roots. Mulching promotes healthy bacteria within the root structure and also combats the growth of harmful weeds.
2. Use natural compost. Adding compost from the kitchen or pelletized manure adds essential nutrients to the soil.
3. Develop an irrigation system. The amount of water and moisture the roots receive is essential to a tree’s development. This simple drip irrigation system can make all the difference.
4. Till the soil. When the soil is too compact, it can impact water intake and therefore growth. Loosening it up by raking or tilling allows water, oxygen and healthy bacteria to help the tree thrive. 
5. Minimize foot traffic. The more the soil is walked on, the more compacted it gets. Ensure the soil around the tree is protected from foot traffic.

A dangerous tree could not only cause damage to your property, but could also cause injury and create liability. If you notice any of the following signs, it’s important to have it taken care of professionally as soon as possible: 

• Large broken limbs or branches tearing from the tree or entangled high up in other branches
• Large limb(s) overhanging or too close to a walkway, structure or driveway (all it takes is one bad storm for an accident to happen)
• The tree is leaning (even slighting)
• Root damage is visible (broken or rotting)
• Roots above ground are encroaching on walkways, pathways or structures
• Large cracks in either the trunk or branches

We love what we do and couldn’t do it without our trusted tools. From chainsaws to rope, here’s  a list of our favourite tools, which have been created by some of the best brands in Canada and make our jobs easier and safer everyday. 

• Chainsaws: Stihl. Stihl’s exceptional chainsaws are reliable, start effortlessly and allow us to slice through any type of wood with ease.
• Chippers and Stump Grinders: Bandit Industries. Built to last, these help us wrap up our projects effectively and without hassle.
• Handsaws: Silky. These handsaws give us extended reach and are lightweight, making each cut faster and more efficient.
• Climbing Harnesses: Teufelberger. When a piece of gear is the difference between staying secure and falling, you have to trust it completely—and these have never let us down.
• Climbing Gear: Petzl. Petzl’s gear gets us anywhere: no matter how high or complex the climb is.
• Rigging Gear: CMI. CMI is the go-to for durable gear built to withstand all of the witty pulley systems we use day to day.
• Climbing and Rigging Rope: Atlantic Braids. In the market for a rope that will never break? We trust Atlantic Braids to provide cordage that’s lighter yet stronger than most competitors.
• Reaching tools: ARS. It’s crucial for us to be able to reach and maneuver around high branches and awkward crevices with ease, and ARS has made it possible.
• Safety Gear: 
  • Saw pants: Clogger. Lightweight, easy to move in and very stretchy, Clogger makes a pants that are both protective and comfortable.
  • Climbing helmets: Protos. With a 5-year lifespan and a huge field of view, Protos has designed helmets that are a perfect match for the needs of our team. 
  • Gloves: Pfanner. Oil-proof and ultra grippy, Pfanner’s fine grip gloves allow us to scale even the roughest, sappiest trees without worry.
  • Protective boots: Haix. Made of high quality, chainsaw cut leather, Haix’s boots keep our feet protected while on the job and keep us comfortable in any temperature. 

Salting side-walks and roads is important in the winter to prevent wipe-outs, but can be extremely harmful to our trees. Salt (especially the kind that contains sodium chloride) can cause long-term damage to not only our trees, but also most vegetation. Here are some tips on how to prevent damage from happening:

• Use an alternative. Instead of harmful salts, try using natural alternatives such as gravel or sand. 
• Create a barrier. While we don’t have control of the roads being salted by the city, burlap, fencing and other barries can help protect our trees. You could even go as far as wrapping the tree’s base. 
• Shovel strategically. When shovelling, be mindful where your snow piles are landing. Be sure not to dump snow piles containing salt onto or near any roots or trees. 
• Water the ground. As soon as snow starts to melt, water the ground to dilute any salt buildup.
• Spray your tree. Anti-desiccants are used to shield evergreens from winter damage, and will increase the odds against any salt damage. 

It may seem straight forward, but you would be surprised how hard some of these signs are to spot: 

• An abundance of random sticks and branches on the ground. Although it is normal for some to be shaken loose seasonally, the tree dropping is also a sign that it is not healthy. 

• The bark is peeling or falling off. Although many think this is a sign of temperature change, this is a definite red flag. You may also notice the bark is cracking.

• Leaf or pine needle shortage. If your trees leaves are sparse or appear brown in colour, this may be a sign it may be in ened of some care.

• Visible rot or fungus. This may speak for itself, but disease can look different from tree to tree and is often hard to spot. If you see what appear to be small black dots creeping up the trunk, for instance, this may be a sign of rot. 

• An increase in pests and bugs. Insects and  pests feed on rot and can be a sign that the inside of the tree could be diseased.
• The tree is starting to lean. Even a gradual lean can be a sign the tree is slowly dying. 

Looking to stay cozy this winter but also spend some time outdoors? Calgary’s local firepits are open until 9 p.m. most days and some even allow drinking! Here are a few of our favourite spots and how to book them, courtesy of The City of Calgary. 

• Inglewood - Mills Park: 1508 - 9 Ave. S.E.
• Deer Ridge Park: 60 Deerpath Rd. S.E.
• Copperfield Park: 41 Copperfield Pt. S.E.

• Parkhill - Stanley Park: 330 - 42 Ave SW
• Beltline - Thomson Family Park: 1236-16 AV SW
• Bankview: 2418 - 17 St SW
• Richmond Community Park: 2620 - 20 St S.W. 

• Mayland Heights: 320 - 19 St. N.E.
• Bridgeland Plaza: 912 General Ave. N.E.
• Marlbourough Park: 6021 Madigan Dr NE

• Mount Pleasant - Confederation Park: 905 - 30 Ave. N.W.
• Hillhurst - Riley Park: 800 - 12 St. N.W.
• Sherwood Park: 660 Sherwood Blvd. N.W.

We see them everywhere in the winter, but what exactly are they—and are they edible? 

1. bearberry (aka kinnikinnick)
2. black currant
3. black huckleberry
4. blueberry (aka bilberry)
5. bunchberry
6. chokecherry
7. cloudberry
8. cranberry
9. crowberry
10. elderberry
11. fairy bell
12. false solomon's-seal
13. golden currant
14. gooseberry
15. hawthorn
16. oregon grape
17. prickly-pear cactus
18. raspberry
19. red currant
20. saskatoon berry (aka service berry, juneberry)
21. skunkbush berry (aka sourberry)
22. strawberry
23. thimbleberry
24. twisted stalk

When it comes to bringing Christmas to the front yard, one of the best ways to do it is wrapping trees in sparkling, bright lights. However, this job is not always an easy endeavour. We’ve got you covered with all the yays and nays:

Do:

• Calculate how many lights you will need. Christmas Lights Etc. provides a helpful light calculation chart for large outdoor trees. Essentially, this calculation comes from measuring the circumference of the trunk and height, and then deciding how much space you want between the bulbs for example, usually they are 4” to 6” apart. Divide the height by the distance of space, and then multiply the multiply the circumference by the distance of space. There you have it: how many feet of lights you will need!
• Make sure you have all the equipment you need before starting. Make sure you have a ladder that reaches the very top of the tree, as well as weather-proofed outdoor extension cords that properly reach the trees base. Wearing gloves is also highly recommended. Depending on how wide the tree is, it may be helpful to set up two ladders on either side, to effectively wrap the width of the tree.
• Have a buddy to spot you while on the ladder for safety.
• Start at the trunk and work your way up, slowly wrap the lights around the tree. Secure the trees along the limbs with secure electrical tape.
  

Don't:

• Leave the extension cord exposed or in a frequently used path, where it could be tripped on. 
• Use non-outdoor grade lights, or regular tape to secure the lights. Ensure everything you are using is winter-proof.
• Use a staple gun or tacks to secure the lights. This not only damages the tree, but can act as a fire hazard.
• Leave the lights unattended for months at a time. Once up, it is important to keep checking on your lights as the winter wears on. 

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